The One Year Urban Survival Plan - Month 9

“For tomorrow belongs to the people who prepare for it today.” – African Proverb

This month, you'll create a bug out binder and learn some miscellaneous skills such as canning, dehydrating, scavenging, bartering, tying knots, and constructing a shelter.

BUG OUT BAG

Now that your bug out bag is done, there's one last thing you need to make: a bug out binder. This is a binder filled with important documents that you might need to take with you during a disaster. All you need is a 3-ring binder and some clear sheet protectors.

Bug Out Binder (or Flash Drive)

Here's what to put in your bug out binder:

Driver's license
Passport
Social security card
School or employee ID
Credit cards (front and back)
Health insurance card
Birth certificate
Marriage certificate
Wills
Vehicle title
Property deed
Medical records
Immunization record
Prescriptions
Trust documents
Deed to burial plot
Insurance policies
Military service record
Bank account numbers
Income tax records
List of phone numbers (in case your phone is dead and you're borrowing someone else's phone)
Recent photos of each family member (in case you're separated and need help finding someone)
Map of local area

Note: DO NOT put original documents in the binder. Rather, make copies of everything and put the copies in the bug out binder. I recommend putting the originals in a fireproof safe.

You could also keep your bug out binder in a fireproof safe as you don't want people to get a hold of that, either. Then if you need to bug out, just open the safe, grab your binder, and leave the originals behind. As long as they're inside a safe, especially one bolted to the floor, you shouldn't have to worry about anyone getting them.

Some people prefer to scan all of these documents and put them on an encrypted flash drive. I think this is a great idea. It takes up less space, and you don't have to worry about some stranger getting access to all your personal information. I have one on my keychain.

I would put these documents on several different flash drives in case you lose one. The downside is that you'll only be able to access the documents if you can get to a place with a working computer. Depending on the type of disaster you're facing, that could take some time.

FOOD AND WATER

Food Preservation Techniques

So far, the only food storage methods we've discussed are vacuum sealing or using Mylar bags and five-gallon buckets. These methods work well and are easy to do, but they're best for dry foods like rice, flour, pasta, instant potatoes, etc.

Remember, during a high-stress, long-term crisis, your physical health will be more important than ever, so you don't want to eat a diet that mainly consists of starchy foods. You also need lots of fruits, veggies, and meat (or beans) in your diet so you get plenty of fiber and nutrition.

But how do you store fruits, vegetables, and meats long-term? There are many options, but the two most popular are dehydrating and canning.

Dehydrating

To dehydrate food, first you'll need to purchase a good dehydrator. (If you can't afford a dehydrator, you can also dehydrate food using your oven, but it's less efficient and might not dry food as evenly.)

Here's what you do:

Wash fruits and veggies to remove any dirt or chemicals. Slice the food into very thin pieces.
Blanch your vegetables, which means boil them for a few minutes. This will preserve color and nutrition. Fruits, on the other hand, should be dipped in lemon juice or absorbic acid. This will prevent browning.
Place the food slices in a single layer on the dehydrator trays. Make sure they don't overlap.
Set your dehydrator to the right temperature for whatever food you're drying. Vegetables usually need about 125°F, fruits about 135°F, and meats up to 155°F.
Drying times vary depending on the type of food, how moist the food is, how thin you sliced the food, etc. It could take anywhere from a few hours to a full day. Check your food halfway through the suggested drying time to see how it's doing.
Check your food. Once it's dehydrated, the fruits should be leathery and pliable, whereas vegetables should be brittle. There should be no visible moisture and the pieces should feel completely dry.
Condition your dehydrated food by leaving it in loosely packed jars for about a week, shaking occasionally. Many people skip this step, but it will help distribute any remaining moisture.
Let the food cool off completely before you seal it up for storage. Be sure to store it in airtight bags or containers.

For more information, here's a detailed guide to dehydrating food. (There are also ways to dehydrate food without electricity, but I would only try these during an extended power outage.)

Although it's pretty straightforward, it does take a bit of practice. There are all sorts of factors that will affect the drying time such as the quality of the food and even where you live. For example, I live in a very humid part of the country, so it takes longer to dehydrate food here.

However, it's worth the effort. While you can purchase dehydrated food online, it's usually pretty pricey, and oftentimes they add lots of sugar or sodium to increase the shelf life. You're better off dehydrating food yourself. And once it's done, you can either vacuum seal it or put it in Mylar bags with oxygen absorbers.

When you're ready to eat your dehydrated food, you can either eat it as is (banana chips are a great snack), or you can rehydrate it. Doing that is fairly straightforward: just soak the dehydrated food in cool water for several hours. You can simmer it to speed up the process.

Canning

Canning is more popular than dehydrating, but it's also more complicated. There are two types of canning: pressure canning and water bath canning.

Pressure Canning

This method requires a pressure canner, which is necessary for low-acid foods such as meats and vegetables. These foods need to be heated to at least 240°F to destroy botulinum spores, which can only be done under high-pressure conditions. Here's what you do:

Prepare the Jars – Sterilize the canning jars, lids, and rings by boiling them or running them through a hot dishwasher cycle.
Prepare the food according to whatever canning recipe you're using.
Fill the jars with food, leaving a little bit of headspace (usually about 1 inch, depending on the recipe). Remove air bubbles with a non-metallic spoon, wipe the rims clean, and secure the lids and rings.
Prepare the Canner – Place the rack in the bottom of the pressure canner and add water (usually 2-3 inches, depending on the canner).
Load the Canner – Place the filled jars on the rack, and make sure they aren't touching each other or the sides of the canner.
Vent the Canner – Turn on the heat and allow steam to vent for about 10 minutes before placing the pressure regulator on the vent pipe.
Set the Pressure – Bring the canner to the correct pressure for your altitude and for the type of food you're canning. About 10-11 psi for sea level, and another 1 psi for each additional 1,000 feet of elevation.
Process the Jars – Once the canner reaches the correct pressure, start your timer and process the jars for the time specified in your recipe.
Cool Down the Canner – When the time is up, turn off the heat and let the canner cool down naturally. Don't open the vent; just let the pressure drop to zero on its own. This can take 30 minutes to an hour or more.
Remove the Jars – When the canner is no longer pressurized, carefully open the canner (be careful not to let the steam burn your face). Use a jar lifter to remove the jars and let them cool for 24 hours.
Check the Seals – Make sure the jars have sealed by pressing down on the center of each lid. If it's sealed, it won't pop back up. If it isn't sealed, put it in the refrigerator and use it soon.
Store the Jars – Label your jars with the date and contents, and store them in a cool, dark location.

It sounds more complicated than it is. Here's a beginner's guide to pressure canning.

Water Bath Canning

This method requires a water bath canner, and it works best with high-acid foods (pH below 4.6) like fruits, jams, jellies, salsas, tomatoes, and pickles. Here's what you do:

Sterilize the canning jars, lids, and rings by boiling them or running them through a hot dishwasher cycle.
Prepare the food you want to can according to whatever canning recipe you're using.
Fill the Canner with Water – Place the rack in the bottom of the canner and fill the canner about halfway up with water. Heat the water enough so that it's hot but not boiling.
Add the Food – While the water heats up, add your prepared food to the jars, leaving a little bit of headspace (depending on the recipe). Remove air bubbles with a non-metallic spoon, wipe the rims clean, and secure the lids and rings.
Load the Canner – Use a jar lifter to place your jars into the canner. If necessary, add water until all the jars are covered by at least an inch of water.
Bring the water to a roiling boil, then leave it for however long the recipe specifies. If your elevation is over 1000 feet, add 5 minutes; if it's over 3000 feet, add 10 minutes; if it's over 6000 feet, add 15 minutes.
Cool the Jars – After the time is up, turn off the heat and carefully remove the canner lid. Let the jars sit in the canner for 5-10 minutes, then remove them with the jar lifter and place them on a towel or cooling rack. Leave them for 24 hours.
Check the Seals – Make sure the jars have sealed by pressing down on the center of each lid. If it's sealed, it won't pop back up. If it isn't sealed, put it in the refrigerator and use it soon.
Store the Jars – Label your jars with the date and contents, and store them in a cool, dark location.

For more information, here's a beginner's guide to water bath canning.

Whether you use a pressure canner or water bath canner, your canned food should be kept in a cool, dark location just like the rest of your food storage.

Other Food Preservation Methods

There are many other food preservation methods that people relied on before refrigerators were invented. There's root cellars, fermentation, salt curing, and more. But for now, you should familiarize yourself with dehydrating, canning, or both. You'll find that the food you preserve yourself is delicious and satisifying.

More Info On Food Preservation:

Food and Water Checklist for Month 9

Practice canning or dehydrating food (or both).
Store at least 2 days of water.
Try some new off-grid recipes.
Choose one recipe and get enough ingredients to make it 8 times.
Stockpile 8 days worth of breakfasts.
Stockpile 8 days worth of lunches.

SKILLS AND SUPPLIES

No matter how prepared you are for a crisis, eventually there will be something you need that you don't have. To get it, you'll have to venture out into the world and find it by either scavenging or bartering at local markets.

Scavenging

A lot of people don't like the idea of scavenging. They consider it theft, but what they're think of is looting, and scavenging is not the same as looting. Looting is where you break into a house or a store and steal things that people will miss. You often see this on the news after hurricanes and earthquakes.

Scavenging, on the other hand, is where you take items that no one will miss from places where the owner is unlikely to ever return. This could be during a long-term crisis like a second Great Depression or even in a post-apocalyptic world.

Maybe you still think of that as stealing, but you might change your mind in a survival scenario. Imagine you've taken in a woman with an infant, and she just ran out of baby formula. Are you saying there's no way you'd go searching for a box of baby formula in an abandoned drug store?

There are plenty of scenarios where scavenging is the moral thing to do. However, it can be very difficult and dangerous. You have to be careful and patient, and you need to bring the right tools with you.

Scavenging Tools

To properly scavenge for supplies, there are several things you should consider bringing. You don't necessarily have to bring all of these items everywhere. It just depends on where you go and what you're looking for.

Adjustable Wrench – Useful for loosening nuts and bolts in urban environments.
Backpacks / Bags – To carry things back.
Binoculars – To watch locations ahead of time and make sure no one else is there.
Bolt Cutters – There could be gates or doors with padlocks.
Bump Keys – Can be used to open most locks, but takes practice.
Cordage – To tie things together or lash things to your backpack.
Crowbar – For prying open doors.
First Aid Kit – Bring a mini first aid kit in case someone gets a cut, scrape, or a more serious injury while searching.
Flashlight and/or Headlamp – The inside of buildings and structures are dark, even during the day. Consider a flashlight with a red filter so you won't draw attention at night.
Folding Shovel – Good to have if you expect to be digging through debris.
Gas Can and Siphon Pump – If you need gasoline, you could siphon some from an abandoned car, but it might not work on newer cars with anti-siphoning mechanisms.
Gloves – Protect your hands while digging through debris.
Goggles – Protect your eyes from dusty areas.
Hacksaw – For cutting through plastic, wood, and many types of metal.
Hatchet – For chopping through doors and other obstructions.
Lock Picks – If anyone in your group knows how to pick locks, be sure to bring these.
Map and Compass – You don't want to get lost while searching for supplies.
Multi-Bit Screwdriver – For taking things apart while searching for parts you need.
N95 Mask – If you're going to search a damaged building, be sure to bring a mask to protect your lungs from dust and particulate matter.
Portable Radio – Bring some kind of portable radio so you can communicate with your group and let them know if you need help with anything.
Slip Joint Pliers – You may also need this while dismantling things.

Where to Scavenge

The simple answer is: Anywhere you might find something you need. Grocery stores, gas stations, hospitals, and restaurants will likely be picked clean, but there are some other places you might find supplies:

Auto Shops – Very important if you have a working vehicle.
Churches – They could have some canned food tucked away somewhere.
Construction Sites – Many people won't think to search a half-completed house or building, but it could have some useful tools, building materials, or even fuel.
Distribution Centers – Stores get their supplies from distribution centers. It may be a little longer before these are picked clean.
Dumpsters – You might be surprised what useful items you find in dumpsters. It can't hurt to check.
Farms – If you're in a rural area, an abandoned farm could have all sorts of useful supplies, but make sure it's actually abandoned first.
Fire Stations – If one of these has been abandoned, check it for food, tools, first aid supplies, water, etc.
Government Buildings – There's usually a bit of food and a first aid kit somewhere. Many government buildings also have solar panels.
Houses / Apartments – This would be very time-consuming, but if there's an entire neighborhood that's been abandoned, there's likely to be some useful supplies somewhere in the neighborhood.
Office Buildings – Like government buildings, there's likely a little bit of food or first aid supplies somewhere. Also check the desks for things like batteries.
Pawn Shops – These will likely be picked clean, but if you're lucky, you may find some weapons, ammo, and electronics such as radios.
Pharmacies – The painkillers will likely be all gone, but there's a chance you could find other useful medications.
Schools – Every school is bound to have some first aid supplies, fire extinguishers, cleaning supplies, and maybe some food.
Self-Storage Facilities – You probably won't find any food or emergency supplies, but you could find some clothes or equipment you can use.
Vehicles – Obviously you would check it for food, supplies, and gasoline, but you could also get some useful things from the car itself such as the tires, battery, the mirrors, the windows, the seat belts, the fabric in the seats, etc.

Scavenging Safely

Send a Scout

Before you go scavenging, you need to send a scout with binoculars, a radio, and a gun. Their job is to watch the location for several hours to make sure there aren't other scavengers there already.

Remember what I wrote about urban safety back in month 2: When you go out in public, try to stay in populated areas where you're less likely to be mugged. If you go somewhere there's no one else around, it would be very easy for a gang to rob and possibly even murder you.

The scout's job isn't just to watch for dangerous people. They also need to note any potential obstacles that might make the location more trouble than it's worth. For example: streams, ditches, high walls, barbed wire fences, etc. Even if you can climb a fence, could you get scavenged supplies back over the fence when leaving?

Also take note of homes or buildings that have been seriously damaged. You don't want to climb stairs that fall apart beneath your feet or enter a building where a roof or wall falls on your head.

You should also have a contingency plan in case the scout is compromised or discovers a threat. Choose a clear signal or code word to quickly abort the mission if necessary.

Make a Plan

Once you decide to search an area, look at your map and make a plan for how you're going to get in and out, and also have an alternate route planned in case the first one gets blocked. You should also create an emergency extraction plan in case things go wrong.

You'll have to weigh the pros and cons of scavenging. Are you looking for something that will save someone's life, or are you just looking for something that will make you slightly more comfortable? Is it really worth the risk? It depends on the circumstances.

Don't Go Alone

If you've scouted a location and decided it's worth the risk, don't go alone. Bring at least one person with you (and more if you can). Try to keep radio contact with people at your home base. If the signal doesn't reach far enough, you could station someone in between to relay messages.

Don't Draw Attention

While scavenging, you want to draw as little attention as possible. Speak quietly and don't make any loud noises or use any loud tools unless absolutely necessary. This will require a bit of patience as moving quietly takes more time, but it's worth it.

If scavenging at night, put red filters on flashlights and headlamps to reduce visibility. Otherwise, dangerous people could easily spot you from far away.

Beware of Contaminated Areas

If there's a chance that a location is contaminated by chemicals, radiation, or biological hazards, then it might not be worth searching. If you choose to go anyway, be sure to bring a respirator and a geiger counter or chemical detector if possible.

After Scavenging

If you did go into a potentially contaminated area, then you need to decontaminate when you get back. Remove your clothes and wash yourself thoroughly along with your tools and supplies. You should also decontaminate any supplies you gathered.

And finally, be sure to mark the locations you've already checked on your map so you don't end up searching the same area twice.

More Info on Scavenging:

Bartering

If the economy collapses and the local currency becomes worthless, it's possible that a barter economy could emerge. It's happened before in places like Argentina, Greece, Russia, Venezuela, and Zimbabwe, so it could definitely happen where you live.

Barter Items

The best barter items are portable and useful. Given that criteria, there are literally hundreds of potential barter items. Below is a list of the best ones. Consider stockpiling more of these so you can use them to trade with your neighbors.

Alcohol – People will be desperate for an escape from reality during hard times. Plus, it's a good temporary painkiller, and it has many other uses.
Ammunition – Be careful who you trade this to. You don't want those people to come back and use it against you.
Batteries – These will be very valuable when technology-addicted people want to listen to music or listen to news on the radio. Not to mention fans, flashlights, walkie talkies, etc.
Coffee & tea – About 3 in 4 people drink coffee and will trade more than they should for their caffeine fix.
First aid supplies – Things like gauze, bandages, and antiseptics could become very valuable in a long-term crisis, especially if there's a lot of violence.
Fuel – Things like gasoline, propane, firewood, and charcoal will be extremely valuable in a world with severe supply chain problems, but make sure you have plenty extra for yourself before you trade it.
Heirloom seeds – These will be practically priceless. Only trade them if you really need to.
Hygiene and sanitation – Any of the hygiene or cleaning supplies I mentioned last month could be very valuable. People who are used to being clean and good-smelling all the time will be desperate for something as simple as a stick of deodorant.
Medications – During any long-term crisis, especially one with lots of supply chain problems, medications will become extremely valuable.
Multipurpose items – All of the multipurpose items I mentioned in month 1 will be valuable because they have so many different uses.
Painkillers – I could have included painkillers under medications, but I kept it separate to emphasize how valuable painkillers will be when prescription medications aren't available. Even though they aren't as powerful as prescription painkillers, people will be happy to take anything that at least dulls the pain a little.
Precious metals – After hyperinflation, many people will still trust in the value of gold and silver. Precious metals are a reliable way to store your wealth through hard times. Just make sure you have it in several denominations. For example, 1-oz coins, 10-oz bars, and 1-kg bars.
Spices & seasonings – People are going to get tired of eating plain rice and beans and other cheap, bland foods. Spices and seasonings can make any dish taste better.
Sugar & honey – Sweeteners like honey will be very popular when sweets and junk food are less common.
Tobacco – Nearly 1 in 5 people are addicted to nicotine in one form or another. That means cigarettes and other forms of tobacco will be very valuable when people are going through withdrawal.
Toilet paper & wipes – Remember, toilet paper was one of the first things to disappear when the COVID-19 pandemic hit. A few rolls of toilet paper could be very valuable to people who are relying on leaves and rags.
Toiletries – We take things like toothpaste and deodorant for granted. When they're hard to find, people are going to miss them, and they'll trade a lot to get them.
Tools and hardware – If the day comes when people can't go to Walmart and buy replacements for broken items, they'll need tools and hardware to fix them.
Water purification – Water filters, purification tablets, or even bleach will be worth a lot.
Winter clothing – In warmer parts of the world, many people don't have much winter clothing other than a jacket. If the power is out and they don't have heat, they'll be desperate for things like thermal underwear and large coats, especially wool or down coats.

As I said, anything that is portable and useful could be valuable in long-term crisis. A lot depends on the nature of the crisis. A second Great Depression is one thing; a post-apocalyptic wasteland is another. Precious metals will be valuable during a depression, but they might be worthless in post-collapse world.

Bartering Tips

If you have the opportunity to barter—whether with your neighbors or at a marketplace—there are a few tips you should keep in mind:

Start Small – Start by trading less valuable items to gauge the market and learn how others are valuing things. Small trades can help you establish some trust and rapport with other traders.
Ask Questions – Once you get to know a few traders, ask about what types of things people are looking for, what those items are being traded for, etc.
Know the Value of Your Items – Think carefully about the type of crisis your area is going through and what items people want the most.
Practice Negotiating – Start by offering less than you're willing to trade (but not so little as to be insulting) and work your way up. Don't be aggressive, and don't be afraid to walk away if the deal doesn't seem fair. This is something you can practice right now at local flea markets.
Stay Flexible – Be willing to trade for items you weren't looking for if it's a good deal. Later, you could trade those items for the things you actually need. Also be willing to barter for services (repairs, medical care, protection, etc.).
Keep a Low Profile – All the gray man tactics covered in month 2 are important here. Don't flaunt your supplies or give people too much information about what you have.
Be Cautious With High-Value Items – Be very careful about things like gold or large quantities of food. It's better to break it down and trade smaller portions. You'll draw less attention this way.
Bring Protection – Bring someone who can watch your back while you're making trades, and make sure you both have a weapon (but keep them discreet).
Have a Backup Plan – Always have an escape route or plan for how to get away quickly if the trade turns dangerous, and discuss it with your partner ahead of time.
Trade in Safe Locations – Do NOT follow a trader down an alley or anywhere without other people around. Stick to trading on the street where there are lots of witnesses.
Avoid Debts – If someone offers you something and says you can pay them later, say no. If you do, it could lead to complications or conflict later on.
Beware of Scams – Inspect everything carefully and don't be afraid to test things like batteries and electronics before purchasing them.
Build a Network – If you find a trader you like and trust, then even if they usually don't have anything you need, keep checking in with them and maintaining that relationship. Over time, try to establish a network of trusted traders.
Keep a Poker Face – Stay calm and don't show too much emotion or eagerness during a trade. If you do, the other party might try to take advantage of you.

More Info On Bartering:

Shelter & Knots

The majority of people going through a disaster or long-term crisis will still be able to find some kind of shelter. However, there are plenty of scenarios where you might need an emergency shelter for the night.

In this section, I'll explain how to find or construct a shelter, and I'll teach you about the most important knots, which are useful for building shelters and many other things.

Urban Shelter

Simply sleeping on a bench or in a box during hard times is liable to get you robbed. If you're looking for temporary shelter in an urban environment, you need to make sure it's somewhere you can remain hidden and secure.

Here are some options to consider if you find yourself needing to hunker down for the night in a city:

Abandoned Buildings – Check for signs of occupation such as graffiti and garbage that looks recent. If the building is unoccupied, it might be a safe place to stay for the night, but stay on one of the higher floors. Block or barricade the entrance to your room if you can, and tuck yourself in a corner behind furniture where you're less likely to be seen if someone enters.
Rooftops – If you can access the roof of an apartment building, commercial building, or even a parking garage, it may be a good place to rest if it isn't raining or too cold. Choose a spot that isn't visible from the windows of other buildings, such as behind an HVAC unit or a parapet wall.
Basements or Utility Rooms – Many buildings have basements, utility rooms, or maintenance areas that are rarely accessed. Check for signs of activity before settling in, and make sure there's a second exit in case you need to leave in a hurry.
Construction Sites – Unfinished houses or buildings could make good temporary shelter. Again, check for signs of anyone else staying there, and beware of hazards like nails or unstable floors, walls, etc.
Public Buildings – Places like schools, libraries, or community centers may be locked after hours, but if you can find a way in, they could be good places to hunker down for the night. Beware of alarms or security systems, choose a room far from any entrances, and find a relatively hidden spot such as a storage area or janitor closet.
Churches – As with public buildings, beware of any alarms or security systems. If you can get into a church, pick a spot where you can be relatively concealed such as a side room or basement. Don't leave any traces of your presence.

These are just a few ideas. Anywhere you're sheltered from the elements and unlikely to encounter other people could be a good spot to sleep for the night. Here a few tips before you choose a temporary shelter:

Do a quick reconnaissance of the place to make sure it's unoccupied.
Move quietly and keep a low profile to avoid attracting attention.
Don't stay long. As soon as it's daylight, get moving.
Keep your gear packed so you can leave quickly if you need to.

And finally, look for potential shelter ahead of time. As you drive around your city running errands, look around and ask yourself where you would stay during an urban disaster. The more ideas you have ahead of time, the better off you'll be in that scenario.

Tarp Shelters

If you're not in a city (perhaps bugging out on foot) and need shelter for the night, there are several types of shelters you can build. First, I'll talk about a couple of shelters you can build using a tarp or rain fly.

A-Frame Shelter

A-Frame Tarp Shelter — ^{Image via Survival Dispatch}

This is a classic and versatile design that can protect you from wind and rain. Here's how to make it.

Materials:

Tarp or rain fly
Rope or paracord
Stakes or rocks
Two trees or poles

Directions:

Find a flat spot between two trees about 6-10 feet apart. Imagine a line connecting the two trees, and make sure the wind is blowing perpendicular to that line, so the wind hits the side of the shelter rather than blowing through it.
Run a ridge line between the two trees at about waist height. Secure it tightly with knots.
Drape your tarp or rain fly over the ridge line so it hangs down equally on both sides.
Pull the corners of the tarp outward and stake them to the ground at a 45-degree angle to the ridge line (if you don't have stakes, you can use rocks or other heavy objects to weigh down the corners).
Adjust the tarp to make sure it’s taut, and secure any loose edges with more stakes or rocks.
Cover the ground inside the shelter with a thick layer of leaves, pine needles, and other soft materials to insulate yourself from the cold ground.

Lean-To Shelter with Tarp

Lean-To Tarp Shelter — ^{Image via Survival Dispatch}

This is another classic shelter design. It offers good protection from the wind and is great to set up next to a fire as the design reflects the heat toward your body. Here's how to make it.

Materials:

Tarp or rain fly
Rope or paracord
Stakes or rocks
One tree or pole

Directions:

Find a flat spot between two trees about 6-10 feet apart. Imagine a line connecting the two trees, and make sure the wind is blowing perpendicular to that line, so the wind hits the side of the shelter rather than blowing through it.
Tie the top edge of the tarp or rain fly to both trees at about shoulder height. Start by tying one corner of the tarp to one tree, then move to the other tree and tie the adjacent corner of the tarp to the second tree at the same height.
Pull the bottom edge of the tarp or rain fly out and down to form a slanted roof that slopes away from the ridge line. Stake the bottom edge of the tarp to the ground (or use rocks or other heavy objects) to secure it.
Make sure the shelter is taut, and secure any loose edges with more stakes or rocks.
Cover the ground under the tarp a thick layer of leaves, pine needles, and other soft materials to insulate yourself from the ground.

Debris Shelters

If you find yourself in need of shelter but don't have a tarp or cordage, there are still plenty of survival shelters you can build using branches, leaves, and other natural materials. Here are the two worth learning.

Debris Hut

The debris hut is a small, insulated shelter that’s ideal for cold weather. It's designed to trap body heat and keep you warm while also protecting you from the wind and rain. Here's how to make it.

Materials:

Long, sturdy branch about 6-8 feet long (for the ridgepole)
Several shorter branches
Lots of leaves, grass, pine needles, and other insulating materials

Directions:

Choose a flat spot that is slightly elevated to avoid water pooling inside the shelter in case it rains.
Prop one end of the ridgepole on a low tree branch, stump, or forked stick (if using a forked stick, make sure it's securely planted in the ground). Leave the other end on the ground. The ridgepole will be the backbone of your shelter.
Layer several short branches against the ridgepole to create a ribbed frame. Keep them close together and make sure they're long enough to reach the ground. From the front, the shelter should now have a triangular shape.
Pile leaves, grass, pine needles, and other insulating materials over the frame. The thicker you make it, the more insulation it will provide. You want about a foot of insulation, and maybe two feet if it's really cold. Pack it tightly.
Leave a small opening at the front. It should be just big enough to crawl through. You can partly cover the entrance with more debris after you crawl inside.
Line the inside of the shelter with a thick layer of leaves and other insulating materials to keep yourself off the cold ground.

Lean-To Shelter with Natural Materials

Above, I explained how to build a lean-to shelter with a tarp, but you can also build one using natural materials like branches, leaves, and bark. It's an effective shelter for blocking wind and rain. Here's how to make it.

Materials:

Two sturdy trees
Long branches for the ridgepole and supporting frame
Leaves, bark, grass, and other natural materials.

Directions:

Find a flat spot between two trees about 6-10 feet apart. Note the direction of the wind and make sure will hit the back of the shelter.
Place a long, sturdy branch (the ridgepole) horizontally between the two trees at about shoulder height, securing it with some kind of cordage, wedging it into notches in the trees, or placing it in natural forks in the trees.
Lean long branches against the ridgepole at an angle on the side that the wind is coming from. Space the branches close together to create a strong frame. This will form a sloped roof that blocks wind and rain.
Layer leaves, grass, bark, and other insulating materials over the roof to create a thick cover. The thicker the cover, the better. Pack it tightly.
Use stakes or rocks to secure the bottom of the shelter to the ground to prevent wind from getting underneath.
Cover the ground with leaves and other soft materials to keep you off the cold ground.

Essential Knots

There are literally hundreds of knots you can learn, but I'm going to teach you what I think are the four most important: the square knot, the bowline knot, the taut-line hitch, and the trucker's hitch.

But first, there are two terms you need to be familiar with:

Working end: This is the part closest to the end of the cord or rope—the part you're actively using to tie the knot.
Standing end: This is the part of the rope that remains stationary and isn't being used to tie the knot.

Square Knot

This is one of the easiest knots, so it's a good one to start with. The square knot, also known as a reef knot, can quickly join two ropes together, which would be useful if your rope isn't long enough for building shelter, securing bundles, making repairs, etc. Here's how to tie it.

Step 1 – Start with two cords (I used red and blue paracord to make it clearer), and put the red cord over the blue cord, forming an X.

Step 2 – Bring the red cord under the blue cord, then pull it upward again.

Step 3 – Now put the red cord over the blue cord again, forming another X.

Step 4 – Bring the red cord through the loop you've formed, then pull it upward again.

Step 5 – Tighten the knot fully and test the knot by pulling both cords in opposite directions.

Summary:

Right over left, under.
Left over right, under.
Tighten and check.

Bowline Knot

The bowline is an incredibly useful knot that creates a loop at the end of any rope, and it won't tighten when you pull on it. You can use it for building a shelter, hanging things up, tying a boat to a dock, creating handles for carrying things, etc. Here's how to tie it.

Step 1 – Create a small loop in the rope near the end, with the short end (working end) of the rope on top. This loop is called the “rabbit hole.”

Step 2 – Take the working end of the rope (the “rabbit”) and pass it through the loop from underneath. This begins forming the loop that won't slip.

Step 3 – Bring the working end of the rope around the back of the standing end (the longer part of the rope that leads to your anchor or load). This forms the main loop of the bowline.

Step 4 – Wrap the working end around the standing end, bringing it down again.

Step 5 – Bring the working end through the loop you created in Step 1 (the “rabbit hole”).

Step 6 – Pull the working end and standing end in opposite directions to tighten the knot. This will form a secure loop that won't slip.

Summary:

“Rabbit comes out of the hole” (Step 2: Pass the end through the loop).
“Runs around the tree” (Steps 3-4: Wrap the end around the standing part).
“Goes back down the hole” (Step 5: Pass the end back through the loop).

Taut-Line Hitch

The taut-line hitch is an adjustable knot that creates a loop in a rope that can be easily tightened or loosened. It's great if you need to adjust the length of a line while keeping it secure. This could be useful for securing tents or tarps, hanging a hammock, setting up a clothesline, creating a trip line, etc. Here's how to tie it.

Step 1 – Wrap the working end of the cord around an anchor such as a pole, branch, tent stake, etc. Then cross the cord over itself.

Step 2 – Pass the working end through the loop you created in Step 1.

Step 3 – Pass the working end through the loop a second time and bring it outside the loop.

Step 4 – Bring the working end under the standing end. You should now be able to slide the knot up and down the standing end. Just hold the working end with one hand while pulling on the standing end to tighten it, or pull on the part looped around the stick to make it larger.

Step 5 – Once you know where you want your knot to be, do this to secure it in place: Wrap the working end around the standing end and pass it through the loop you just created.

Step 6 – Now pull the working end and standing end in opposite directions to secure the knot in place.

Summary:

Wrap twice inside the loop: Make two turns around the standing part within the loop.
Wrap once outside the loop: Make one final turn outside the loop.
Adjust before securing: Slide the knot to adjust the tension before locking it in place with the final half hitch.

Trucker's Hitch

The trucker’s hitch is used to create a loop in a rope that acts as a pulley, making it easy to tighten the rope. This makes it great for securing loads, tying down equipment, and tightening lines. Here's how to tie it.

Step 1 – First, you need to anchor one end of the cord or rope. There's no picture for this, but the part of the cord that isn't pictured would be tied to a tree or something. To make it easier to follow along, curl the cord into the same pattern seen in the picture below.

Step 2 – Form a bight (a U-shaped bend) in the rope and bring it behind the standing end.

Step 3 – Pull the bight a little farther. You will need it for the next step.

Step 4 – Bring the bight over the standing end, then pass it through the small loop below it from underneath.

Step 5 – At this point, you can wrap the working around a tree or pole, or pass it through a hook like the image below. Then, pass the working end through the loop in the bight from above. Now you can pull on the working end to make the line taut.

Step 6 – To secure the knot, wrap the working end around the bottom and pass it beneath itself (this is called a “half hitch”).

To make it more secure, you can wrap the working end around again to create a second half hitch.

Summary:

Anchor the Rope: Secure one end of the cord or rope to a fixed object.
Form a Bight: Make a U-shaped bend (bight) in the rope near the anchored end.
Create a Loop: Pass the bight behind the standing end, then pull it through a small loop to form a slip knot.
Tighten the Rope: Wrap the working end around the object you’re securing, then pass it through the loop. Pull to tighten the line.
Secure the Knot: Lock the tension by tying one or two half hitches with the working end.

More Info on Shelter & Knots:

Skills and Supplies Checklist for Month 9

Gather tools you may need for scavenging.
Explore your city for places that could be scavenged.
Learn to scavenge safely.
Gather barter items you may need someday.
Practice haggling at yard sales, flea markets, etc.
Explore your city for places you could shelter for the night.
Learn to build a shelter using a tarp.
Learn to build a shelter using natural materials.
Learn and practice the most important knots.
Set aside $40 cash.

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