The One Year Urban Survival Plan - Month 10

“Survival can be summed up in three words – never give up. That’s the heart of it really. Just keep trying.” – Bear Grylls

This month, you'll finish creating your bug out bag. You'll also learn a lot about growing food including sprouting seeds, which plants to grow, how to garden outdoors, how to garden indoors, and how to compost.

Table Of Contents

BUG OUT BAG

This month, we'll be adding lots of miscellaneous items to the 72-hour kit. These are things that didn't fit into any of the other categories, but they're still important to have during a short-term emergency or bug out.

Miscellaneous Bug Out Bag Items

Here's what to get:

Chapstick – Even if you don't use Chapstick, it can still be very useful.
Compass – If you end up hiking through an area you're unfamiliar with, you'll need this.
Face mask – This is important to have if the disaster is a major pandemic.
Firearm – This depends on how comfortable you are with guns, but I highly recommend getting a good handgun such as a Glock and learning how to use it.
Insect repellent – Your day will be much more pleasant if you aren't covered with bug bites.
Knife – A fixed-blade knife with a full tang can be used for all sorts of things such as carving wood, cutting rope, making kindling, preparing food, etc.
Mace – If you don't want to carry a firearm, at least get some mace.
Map – Get a detailed, topographical map of your local area.
Multitool – There are many reasons a multitool could be useful.
Paracord – This has all sorts of uses, especially when building a shelter.
Pen and pencil – You might need this to take notes or leave notes for someone.
Runners light – Clip this to the outside of your bag. That way if you're walking by a road at night, drivers will be able to see you.
Shammy cloth – These are great because they can soak up lots of water and dry very quickly.
Signal mirror – If you're lost in the wilderness, you could use this to signal planes for help.
Sillcock key – If you're in an urban area and need water, this will turn on outdoor spigots that don't have a valve.
Sunblock – Forgetting this could be disastrous. A bad sunburn will not only cause terrible pain, it will quickly wear you out.
Tiny Survival Guides – These can fit in your pocket, and when you unfold them, you can read all sorts of helpful survival and first aid information. They come with a mini magnifying glass so you can read them.
Trash Bags – These aren't just for trash. There are many other uses. Bring at least half a dozen.
Whistle – With this, you can call for help or find one another if you and your family get separated in the wilderness.
Zip ties – These are good for building shelters or making emergency repairs.

FOOD AND WATER

Growing Your Own Food

Normally, this section is all about stockpiling food and water, but not this month. This month, I'm going to talk about growing your own food. I'll go over your options and list the best foods to grow.

But first I want to make something clear: You probably won't be able to live off your survival garden. To produce enough calories to feed you and your family every day year round, you would have to work on gardening and food preservation from sunup to sundown, and you'd need a very sizeable yard.

You'd also need to be familiar with greenhouses, composting, succession planting, companion planting, pest prevention, plant diseases, and so much more. I'm not saying it's impossible, but what we're talking about here is long-term homesteading, and the purpose of this guide is to help you survive a temporary crisis in the city or suburbs.

So why even talk about gardening? Because growing a few veggies will allow you to supplement your diet with nutritious, fiber-rich foods, which are great for your health. You can also grow medicinal herbs, which are great to have when modern medications are in short supply.

There are several ways to grow food. Here are some of your options.

Sprouting Seeds

I only recently got into sprouting seeds, and I love it! It's easy to do, the sprouts are delicious, and they're packed with vitamins, minerals, proteins, and enzymes.

To sprout seeds, you'll need some 32-oz mason jars and some strainer lids (instead of strainer lids, you could use coffee filters or cheesecloth secured with rubber bands). Here's what you do:

Place a couple tablespoons of seeds into your jar.
Cover the seeds with a couple inches of water and allow them to sit overnight.
Drain out the water, then place the jar at an angle inside a bowl with the opening at the bottom so water can continue to drain.
Rinse the sprouts 3-4 times a day (I set reminders on my phone so I don't forget). If you don't do this, mold and bacteria will grow and ruin the sprouts.
Once the sprouts are about 1-2 inches long and have tiny green leaves (which can take 3-7 days), rinse them thoroughly and either eat them right away or store them in the refrigerator where they can last up to a week in an airtight container.

I have several jars going all the time, so I always have fresh sprouts. I put them on salads, sandwiches, baked potatoes, and I occasionally add them to soups and stews.

What Type of Seeds Can I Sprout?

There are all sorts of seeds you can sprout including:

Alfalfa
Amaranth
Barley
Broccoli
Buckwheat
Chia
Chickpeas
Fenugreek
Lentils
Mung beans
Quinoa
Radishes
Wheat berries

There are others, but these are the most popular. If you want to stock up on a whole bunch of seeds for sprouting, go with something cheap like wheat berries.

Growing Food Outdoors

If you have a backyard, you can plant seeds directly in the ground. Just find a spot that gets plenty of sunlight, test your soil to find out whether you need to amend it, and find out what plants do best in your plant hardiness zone.

If you're new to gardening, I'd suggest starting with raised beds. You'll have to buy some lumber and construct them, but it's not that hard. Raised beds are a lot easier to deal with. There are fewer weeds and pests, your plants are less likely to get root rot, and you'll get a longer growing season.

Porch / Balcony Gardening

If you don't have room for a traditional garden or raised beds and only have a porch or balcony, I'd suggest bucket gardening. Get some five-gallon buckets and turn them into planters. If you're putting them on a porch or balcony, don't forget to put saucers beneath them so they don't leak everywhere.

You can fit quite a few buckets on a balcony. However, you should be cautious about the weight of all those buckets. A five-gallon bucket full of potting soil weighs about 60 pounds, and most balconies can only hold about 50-100 pounds per square foot (I would assume 50 just to be safe).

To see how many buckets your balcony can hold, first calculate the square footage of your balcony by multiplying the width by the length, then multiply that number by 50. Finally, divide that by 60 to see how many five-gallon buckets of dirt your balcony can hold. Most balconies should be able to hold plenty of buckets, but it doesn't hurt to check.

There are many other ways to grow food on porches and balconies including railing planters, hanging planters, vertical garden planters, and more.

Growing Food Indoors

There are a couple ways to grow food indoors, but the simplest is container gardening. You just get some small planters, fill them with potting soil, plant your seeds, water them regularly, and watch them grow. Obviously, there's a little more to it, but that's the gist of it. A lot depends on what you're growing as every plant has its own needs.

You'll have to put your plants by a window where they can get plenty of sunlight. Otherwise, you'll want to purchase some grow lights (during a power outage, you'll need to rely on alternative power sources to keep them on). You'll also want to make sure there's good air circulation, so a ceiling fan or oscillating fan is a good idea.

One thing to keep in mind: Many fruits and vegetables need pollination in order to grow properly, so if you're growing them indoors, you'll need to pollinate them yourself. It's fairly simple. You just use a brush to collect pollen from the anthers of the male flower and gently rub it on the stigma of female flower. Here's how to do it.

If growing food indoors is something you're interested in, check out this guide to indoor gardening.

Aquaponics and Hydroponics

Another way to grow food indoors is with hydroponics. This method has become more popular recently because it doesn't require any soil. You just grow food directly in the water. However, you do have to add a nutrient solution to the water.

Aquaponics, on the other hand, doesn't require a nutrient solution because you also have fish in the water, and the fish waste adds nutrients to the water. With this method, you need plenty of fish food, but you're also growing fish that you can eat.

The great thing about aquaponics and hydroponics is you don't have to keep adding water because it's a closed-loop system. This is great for people who don't have a reliable source of water. Also, the plants grow faster, they don't require a lot of space, and you don't have to worry about pests and weeds.

However, there are some downsides to these methods. There's a steep learning curve, and it takes a lot of time and money to set it up. Plus, it requires 24/7 power to keep the water pumps going, not to mention the grow lights.

So if you're worried about power outages, I wouldn't try this unless you have an alternate source of power such as solar panels. If you want to learn more, here's a beginner's guide to aquaponics.

Best Plants to Grow

So what should you grow? There are hundreds of herbs, fruits, and vegetables to choose from, so we need to narrow it down. Here are some criteria to consider when deciding:

Is it easy to grow? (Important to know if you're a newbie.)
Does it need a lot of water? (Could be an issue when water is scarce.)
Will it grow well in your climate, or will you need to grow it indoors?
If you need to grow it indoors, do you have plenty of space?
How long does it take to grow from seed to harvest?
Will it produce a lot of calories, fiber, and nutrition?
Does it need to be pollinated? (Worth considering if you're growing it indoors.)
Is it something you and your family actually like to eat?
Does it store well without freezing or refrigeration?
Does it have multiple uses? (Garlic, for example, is good in cooking and medicine).
If it's a medicinal herb, can it be used to treat multiple ailments?

Take some time to ponder these questions before deciding what to grow. Ultimately, it's up to you, but here are some suggestions.

Suggested Fruits

Blueberries – Dwarf varieties of blueberries are fairly easy to grow in containers. They don't need much water, and you can grow them indoors or outdoors. They take 2-3 years to produce a full harvest, but it's worth the wait as they're rich in vitamin C and antioxidants.

Raspberries – These are good for container gardening, they don't need much water, and they can be grown in most climates or indoors. Raspberries produce fruit in the first year and provide a full harvest in the second year. Plus, they're self-pollinating.

Strawberries – These are easy to grow in containers or hanging baskets. They don't need much water, and they can also be grown indoors. They produce fruit in about 60-90 days, and they're also high in vitamin C and antioxidants. However, they need hand pollination indoors.

Dwarf Trees – Most other fruits grow on trees, which is a problem if you don't have a large yard. However, there are many dwarf varieties of trees that can be grown in five-gallon buckets. This includes apples, figs, lemons, and peaches. Some of them need hand pollination and take 2-3 years to produce a lot, so you'll have to decide whether it's worth the effort.

Suggested Vegetables

Beets – Beets have a good amount of calories and are rich in nutrients like folate. They grow well in containers, and both the roots and greens are edible. Plus, they last an incredibly long time if you keep them cool.

Cabbage – Cabbage is low in calories, but it's high in fiber and very filling. You can grow it in containers, and a head of cabbage can last up to a month without refrigeration.

Carrots – Carrots are nutritious and high in carbohydrates. They grow best in deep containers and are fairly easy to maintain. They also store very well in cool basements or root cellars.

Corn – I almost didn't include this because it only does well in certain zones, and it would be difficult to grow it indoors as you would need very large containers and plenty of grow lights. However, it does produce a lot of calories, so if you have space outside and you don't live somewhere unusually hot or cold, it may be worth a try.

Kale – Although kale doesn't have much calories, it's very nutritious and it grows well in containers. It’s very hardy and can be harvested repeatedly, providing a continuous supply of greens.

Onions – Onions are higher in calories than you might think, but that's not the reason to grow them. They're an essential ingredient in all sorts of recipes, and they can last a long time without refrigeration.

Peas – Peas are high in both calories and protein, and they're fairly easy to grow. However, they need plenty of water and a trellis for the vines to climb.

Peppers – Bell peppers and hot peppers are easy to grow and rich in vitamins, but the main benefit is the flavor. You can use them to spice up all sorts of otherwise bland dishes.

Pinto Beans – Beans of all kinds—but especially pinto beans—are high in calories, protein, fiber, and essential nutrients. Bush varieties don't need a trellis, although you should still use a stake to support them. The best thing about beans is that you can dry them out and keep them for years.

Potatoes – Potatoes are high in calories and carbohydrates, making them a great energy source. They do need a lot of water, but it's worth the effort. I know someone who starts a new bucket with slips in it every month so he has a fresh supply of potatoes every month.

Sunflowers – Not technically a vegetable, but sunflower seeds produce lots of healthy fats, and you can sprout them in jars if you want. Plus, they're beautiful to look at.

Sweet Potatoes – Sweet potatoes are high in calories, fiber, and vitamins, and they can easily grow in containers as long as they have good drainage. Plus, their vines can be used in salads.

Tomatoes – Tomatoes don't have a lot of calories, but they're worth growing for their versatility. You can use them to make salsa, ketchup, spaghetti sauce, and many other things.

Squash – All varieties of squash have a fair amount of calories, lots of fiber, and grow well in large containers. They're easy to prepare, and they store well.

Zucchini – Zucchini plants will produce a lot as long as they have plenty of space. They are high in fiber and can be used in all sorts of recipes, although I prefer chopping them up and baking them with a little salt and olive oil.

Suggested Herbs

Aloe Vera – This one isn't a traditional herb, but it's incredibly easy to grow and it has many uses, the most important of which is to treat burns and other skin conditions.

Basil – Basil is easy to grow and used in all kinds of recipes. Plus, it has medicinal properties as well. It's an anti-inflammatory, and it can help with indigestion.

Chives – Chives are also easy to grow and add a mild onion flavor to recipes. As long as you take good care of your chive plant, you can keep harvesting from it year round.

Lemon Balm – Lemon balm is hardy and grows well indoors. You can use it in tea for its calming effects, which can help with anxiety and insomnia.

Mint – Mint grows well in containers, but don't plant it directly in the ground because it's extremely invasive. Mint is used in some recipes, but the best thing to do is use it in tea as it can help with digestive issues and respiratory problems.

Oregano – Oregano is a staple in countless recipes, especially Italian food. Plus, it has powerful antibacterial and antiviral properties.

Parsley – Parsley grows well indoors and is used in a variety of recipes. It's high in vitamins A, C, and K, and it can help with digestion.

Rosemary – Rosemary is a hardy herb that thrives indoors with enough light. It's great for seasoning food—especially chicken and Italian dishes—and it is known to improve memory and aid with digestion.

Sage – Sage is easy to grow indoors and is valuable in cooking. It's also popular for its anti-inflammatory and memory-boosting properties.

Thyme – Thyme is also easy to grow indoors and has countless uses in cooking. It also possesses antiseptic and antibacterial properties, making it useful for natural remedies.

Build a Survival Seed Bank

If you're going to grow your own food, you need to consider where you'll get your seeds during a long-term crisis. Odds are, the stores will be out of seeds, or whatever seeds you do find will be very expensive. You can harvest seeds from grocery store produce, but who knows what the stores will have in stock?

That's why it's a good idea to create a survival seed bank—a collection of seeds that you store long-term so you'll have them when you need them. Even if you don't ever grow your own food, seeds could make a great barter item someday.

To create a survival seed bank, first decide which seeds to store. Make sure you choose a variety of seeds that would help you maintain a balanced diet. This includes fruits, grains, legumes, and vegetables. Make sure the seeds are non-hybrid, non-GMO, heirloom varieties so you can save seeds from year to year.

Put the seed packets inside airtight containers such as mason jars and vacuum-sealed bags. To make them last even longer, add silica gel packets to the container to absorb any moisture. Store the containers in a place where the temperature is cool and stable, such as a basement or root cellar. However, a closet will do if that's all you have.

You can also store seeds in the freezer, which can extend the shelf life by several years. Also, keep in mind that some seeds have a longer shelf life than others, which is why you should label each type of seed with the date you stored it.

More Info On Gardening:

Food and Water Checklist for Month 10

Experiment with sprouting seeds.
Learn about growing food indoors and outdoors.
Research and decide which gardening methods and plants are best for you.
Start growing at least one herb and one vegetable, and practice taking care of them.
Store at least 2 days of water.
Try some new off-grid recipes.
Choose one recipe and get enough ingredients to make it 8 times.
Stockpile 8 days worth of breakfasts.
Stockpile 8 days worth of lunches.

SKILLS AND SUPPLIES

Gardening

Many people start gardening in hopes of lowering their grocery bill. Unfortunately, you have to spend a good bit of money up front on all sorts of gardening tools and supplies. Also, first-time gardeners don't always have the best yields since they're still learning, so most people have to garden for a few years before they actually start saving money.

Still, it's worth it in the long run, and it will definitely be worth it if a time comes when grocery store shelves are mostly empty and fresh produce is hard to find. Having some nutritious, fiber-rich foods will be crucial for your health when most of your calories are coming from your emergency food storage.

As I said before, there are a few different ways to garden:

In-ground or raised-bed gardening
Indoor container gardening
Porch or balcony gardening

There's also aquaponics and hydroponics, but since most people aren't going to go that route, and since it would take a long time to explain, I won't cover it here. If you're interested in that topic, check out this beginner's guide to aquaponics.

First, I'm going to list some basic gardening tools and supplies that you'll need no matter which type of garden you choose. Then, I'm going to go through each of the three methods in the bulleted list above and tell you what you'll need for each one.

General Gardening Tools

The following is a list of suggested gardening tools. Whether you get all or only some of them is up to you. It depends on what and how much you're growing. As long as you get decent tools and take good care of them, you should be able to use them year after year.

Garden Kneeler and Seat – Nice to have during long gardening sessions, especially if you're older or have back pain.
Gloves – When I first started gardening, I didn't think I needed these. Then one day, I was trying to dig up some sweet potatoes, and a chunk of potato went under my fingernail all the way up to the cuticle. I had to go to urgent care to get it removed. I've worn gardening gloves ever since.
Hand Trowel – This is essential for digging and transplanting, no matter what type of garden you have.
Moisture Meter – I used one of these when I first started gardening, but it always said the soil was too dry and I ended up over-watering my plants. You can use one if you want, but I suggest the finger test. Stick your finger into the soil a couple knuckles deep. Remove your finger and if it's moist, you don't need to water yet. If it comes out mostly dry, it's time to water.
Plant Supports – Bush beans need stakes, cucumbers need trellises, and tomatoes need cages. Always make sure you have the appropriate plant supports before you start growing something.
Pruning Shears or Scissors – It's important to prune your plants on a regular basis so they can put more energy into the fruit or vegetable and so there's plenty of ventilation, which is important for their health.
Spray Bottle – This is for misting plants that prefer a humid environment. It's mainly for indoor gardening, but if you grow seedlings indoors before bringing them outside, you can use this to gently water them.

General Gardening Supplies

These are things that you'll have to purchase again most seasons. Some of it, such as plant covers, can be reused a few times, but they won't last forever.

Diatomaceous Earth – An easy way to kill pests, but use with caution as it can also harm beneficial insects.
Fertilizer – Fertilizer is great, but I wouldn't become too reliant on it. There could come a time where it's hard to find or too expensive. If possible, start composting everything you can so you can make your own fertilizer.
Garden Journal – You can buy garden journals that have templates you can fill out, or you can just get a spiral notebook or 3-ring binder. It's helpful to keep track of things that went well or things that went wrong (along with the dates they happened) so you can remember for next season.
Mulch – You have to mulch. It's crucial. Mulching will help prevent weeds, maintain soil temperature, and most importantly, retain moisture so you don't have to water as often. You can purchase mulch, or you could just gather leaves and chop them up with your lawnmower.
Neem Oil – This all-natural oil stops pests without using dangerous chemicals and without harming beneficial insects.
Peat Pots – It's a good idea to start your seeds indoors before moving them outside. If you do that, you can use peat pots, which are biodegradable.
Plant Covers – These are important to have in case of freezing temperatures. Unless it gets way below freezing, they should protect your plants until morning.
Plant Labels – Useful for keeping track of plant types, especially when starting seeds. I use popsicle sticks because they're cheaper and eco-friendly. However, don't write on them with a regular pen because the ink will wash away. Either use a pencil or a permanent marker that's labeled “industrial” or “extreme”.
Twine – Use this for tying branches or vines to stakes and trellises to support the plant or train it to grow in a certain direction.

In-Ground or Raised Bed Gardening Tools and Supplies

You don't necessarily need all of these. It partly depends on what you're growing.

Dibber or Bulb Planter – These make it easy to plant bulbs and seedlings at consistent depths.
Edging Tool – Not essential, but it can help you make clean lines around garden beds or along pathways.
Garden Fork – Good for loosening and aerating soil, turning compost, and digging out root crops.
Garden Hose – Expandable garden hoses are popular and take up less space, but a good rubber hose will last a lot longer.
Garden Rake – Use this to level the soil, clear debris, spread mulch or compost, and much more.
Garden Shovel – This is for digging, turning soil, and planting larger plants. Get a spade with a sharp edge so you can cut through sod or hard soil.
Garden Sprayer – If you're applying something like neem oil to your plants, using a spray bottle can be very tiring and time-consuming. A pressure pump sprayer makes it much faster and easier.
Hoe – Useful for weeding and breaking up the soil to prepare it for planting.
Knee Pads or Kneeling Pad – If you have bad knees, or even if you don't, these are great to have when planting or weeding.
Pest Control Supplies – Use organic options like neem oil or diatomaceous earth. You could also use nematodes or ladybugs, which solved my aphid problem last year. If your problem is birds, squirrels, and other animals, get some row covers or netting.
Soil Test Kit – This will tell you your soil's pH and nutrition content so you know exactly how to amend it.
Watering System – Things like sprinkler systems or soaker hoses can save you a ton of time you'd otherwise spend watering.
Watering Wand – Most people prefer spray nozzles, but I like the wands because they allow you to reach farther and direct the water exactly where you want.
Wheelbarrow – Essential for moving soil, compost, mulch, and other things around the garden.

Indoor Gardening Tools and Supplies

Grow Lights – If you can't get enough light from your windows (and most people can't), you'll need some grow lights. Use an outlet timer so they'll turn on and off automatically.
Humidity Trays or Humidifier – Many plants do best in a humid environment, and since most homes aren't very humid, a humidity tray or small humidifier can make a big difference.
Plant Stands – There are all sorts of options here, from single plant stands to 3 tier stands with bars for hanging plants. With one of these, you can fit several plants in a small space.
Planters with Saucers – If you're growing plants indoors, make sure you put saucers beneath them to catch excess water.
Potting Soil – Get a good quality potting mix designed for container gardening.
Watering Can – Get one with a long spout so it's easier to reach where you need to.

Porch or Balcony Gardening Tools and Supplies

Five-Gallon Buckets – These are great for growing plants. Just drill some holes in the bottom and you have a planter, or build yourself a self-watering planter.
Hanging Planters – These are great for herbs, flowers, strawberries, cherry tomatoes, and other small plant.
Mini Greenhouse – This mini greenhouse fits on your porch and allows you to start plants earlier in the spring and later in the fall.
Planters with Saucers – If you're growing plants on a balcony, make sure you put saucers beneath them to catch excess water.
Vertical Gardening Systems – Wall-mounted planters, railing planters, or vertical garden frames allow you to grow a lot even on a fairly small porch or balcony.
Watering Can – Getting one with a long spout is especially important if you have hanging plants that are hard to reach.

More Info on Gardening Tools and Supplies:

Urban Gardening

Gardening is a massive topic, and there are countless tomes on the topic. I'm not going to cover everything you need to know about gardening here, but I'm going to cover all the basics so you have enough of a foundation to get started. For advice on how to grow specific plants, you'll need to do your own research.

In-Ground Gardening

This is the traditional way of gardening. It's a perfectly good method if you do everything correctly. Here are four steps to preparing your in-ground garden:

1. Choose the Site

It's very important that you choose the right location for your garden. Make sure it's a spot where the soil drains well and not a spot where water tends to pool after it rains. Also, make sure it gets at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. If it doesn't, you may be able to grow some shade-tolerant plants there.

2. Test the Soil

Before you plant anything, it's a good idea to test the soil so you know its pH and nutrition levels. You can get soil test kits online, and they'll tell you exactly what your soil is lacking. Then, you can decide whether to plant somewhere else or stick with that site and amend the soil (you'll amend the soil later).

3. Decide on the Layout

Traditional garden rows are between 12 and 24 inches wide, with about 18-36 inches of space between the rows so there's room to walk between them and easily reach every plant. However, they aren't the most efficient use of space.

I'd suggest garden rows that are up to 4 feet wide. This way, you should be able to reach the center of the bed from either side, and you won't have to leave as much space for walking between the rows.

However, it depends on what you're planting. For example, corn benefits from wind-pollination, which is more efficient when they're lined up in a row. You'll have to decide which layout is best for you and the crops you're growing.

4. Prepare the Area

Pull the weeds and remove any rocks or debris. You can use a hoe for this, but you could also use a shovel. Tip: Watering the area first can make it easier to pull weeds.

Next, you need to decide whether to till the soil. Some people argue that you shouldn't till the soil because it disrupts the soil's ecosystem and kills off beneficial microorganisms. Additionally, no-till gardening reduces soil erosion, conserves moisture, and suppresses weeds, all while requiring less work. Here's how to do it.

No-Till Gardening:

Add a 2-4 inch layer of compost on top of the soil. This will provide nutrients for your plants.
Add a 3-6 inch layer of mulch (straws, leaves, grass clippings, etc.) over the compost. This mulch will help suppress weeds and retain moisture.
When it's time to plant, pull back the mulch, create shallow holes in the compost, and plant your seeds at the appropriate depth.

The main downside is that it can take several seasons for all of the compost and mulch to decompose and fully enrich the soil below, which means you might have low yields in the first season.

If you want to start growing lots of food right away, you should just go ahead and till the soil. You can use a tiller, but that will only rip up the top 6 inches of soil, and many of your plants' roots need to go deeper.

A better option is double digging. This method loosens the soil far deeper than a tiller, allowing roots to reach deeper and access more water and nutrients. Here's how to do it.

Double Digging:

Go to the end of your garden bed and dig a foot-deep trench across the width of the bed (which should be about 3-5 feet). As you dig, put the soil into a wheelbarrow or some other container.
Next, stick your garden fork into the bottom of the trench and rock it back and forth to loosen the soil. Do this several times across the width of the garden bed.
Now, dig another trench right next to the first one, but this time, dump the soil into the first trench. Again, use the garden fork to break up the soil at the bottom.
Repeat this process until you get to the other end of the garden bed. Finally, dump the soil from the wheelbarrow into the last trench.

This will create a nice, fluffy garden bed. If the soil needs to be amended, add whatever is needed (based on the soil test results) and rake it into the soil.

Raised Bed Gardening

If you're a beginner, then you're probably better off going with raised beds. With a raised bed garden, you have better control over the soil, a longer growing season, fewer weeds and pests, and less bending and kneeling. Here are steps to preparing a raised bed garden:

1. Choose the Site

Be sure to choose a spot that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Also, pick a site with good drainage. The water inside the raised bed won't be able to drain out if water is pooling around the outside of the raised bed.

2. Decide What Type of Raised Bed To Use

You can build raised beds from lumber, or you can purchase fabric raised beds online. Either one will work, but a well-constructed raised bed will last longer than a fabric raised bed.

If you decide to build one, be sure to use untreated wood, otherwise the chemicals will harm beneficial organisms and end up in your soil and plants. Cedar and redwood are great options because they're naturally rot-resistant.

3. Decide on the Layout

A typical raised bed is 4 feet wide and 6-8 feet long. The height can be anywhere from 12 to 18 inches or more, depending on what you want to grow. Make sure it's not so wide that you can't reach the center of the bed without stepping in it.

The beds don't have to be rectangular. You can also build (or purchase) beds that are 3×3 or 4×4 feet. It depends on what you're growing and your personal preferences.

A great way to maximize space in your raised bed is with square foot gardening. With this method, each square foot has its own plant, making it easy to manage and allowing you to grow lots of crops in a small area.

4. Fill The Bed

If you built a raised bed, the next thing you need to do is prepare the ground. Clear out any grass, weeds, and debris. Another option is to simply smother the weeds by laying down cardboard or landscape fabric.

Next, you need to fill the raised bed with soil. For this, you'll need to purchase a lot of soil. It will be expensive, but it's a one-time purchase because in future seasons, you can recharge the soil with compost and manure.

Make sure you purchase the right type of soil for the plants you're growing. You can purchase soil mixes specifically formulated for raised beds, or you can make your own. A common blend is 60% topsoil, 30% compost, and 10% perlite or vermiculite for drainage.

Indoor Gardening

In general, you won't be able to grow as much food indoors as outdoors, but if you live in an apartment or have a tiny yard, this might be your only option. Fortunately, you can still produce a significant amount of food if you're smart about it. Here are steps to creating an indoor garden.

1. Choose the Right Location

Most plants need 6-8 hours of sunlight every day. On the next sunny day, monitor every window in your home and find out exactly how much direct sunlight each window gets. This way, you can put the plants that need the most light in front of the sunniest windows.

You also need to make sure your plants have enough space. Don't forget to take into account how big your plants will be when fully grown. You may be able to fit a bunch of planters with seedlings in front of a single window, but they might not fit there by the time the plants are done growing.

2. Set Up Lighting

Be sure you know how much light each plant needs and group them accordingly. The plants that need the least light should be next to the most sunny window, while the plants that need the least light should be next to the least sunny window.

You will likely need to get several grow lights to supplement whatever light you get from your windows. For example, if you have a window that gets 3-4 hours of sunlight per day, then you can turn on the grow lights for 3-4 hours after the sunlight has passed the window. Use an outlet timer so you don't have to worry about turning them on and off every day.

3. Choose Your Containers

Don't use the same type of container for every plant. Research everything you want to grow and find out how much space they need and how deep the roots go.

Lettuce, for example, has very shallow roots and can be grown in containers as little as 6 inches deep. Tomatoes, on the other hand, have very deep roots and need a container that's at least 24 inches deep.

Whatever containers you use, make sure they have plenty of drainage holes at the bottom and that they're sitting in a saucer so water doesn't get on the floor.

4. Add the Soil

This part is easy—just get a potting mix designed for indoor plants. Don't use soil from outside as it could be too dense for your plants and may have pests or diseases in it.

You can amend potting mix depending on the plant. For example, carrots need very well-draining soil, so you could add a little perlite to the potting mix to make it drain better. But in general, store-bought potting mix should be fine for most fruits and vegetables.

5. Improve the Environment

Healthy plants need humidity and ventilation. If the air in your home is dry, add some humidity trays beneath your plants. These are trays filled with pebbles and water, and they increase the moisture in the air around them.

Also, if your plants are in a room where the air is stagnant, you can improve circulation by adding a small oscillating fan to the room and running it for a few hours a day. This will mimic a natural outdoor breeze and reduce the chance of mold or mildew on your plants.

Porch / Balcony Gardening

If the only place you can grow anything is on your porch or balcony, that's okay. You can still grow enough to supplement your diet with lots of fiber and nutrition. Here's how to set up a porch or balcony garden.

1. Assess Your Space

Observe the space throughout the day to find out how much sunlight it gets, which parts get the most and least sunlight, which parts get the most wind, etc. If you're planning on using lots of five-gallon buckets, make sure your balcony is capable of holding the weight (square foot of balcony x 50 ÷ 60 = number of five-gallon buckets your balcony can likely hold).

2. Decide Which Plants To Grow

Choose plants that are known for doing well in containers and/or plants that thrive in light conditions similar to those on your balcony. Some great choices include herbs like basil and mint, leafy greens like lettuce and spinach, and compact vegetables like peppers and cherry tomatoes.

Also, be sure to take the mature size of the plants into account so your space isn't overcrowded later on. I would avoid any tall or vining plants such as corn or melons.

3. Choose The Right Containers

As mentioned above, there are all sorts of containers you can put on a porch or balcony including five-gallon buckets, hanging planters, railing planters, wall-mounted planters, vertical garden frames, etc.

You'll need to research the plants you're growing and decide which types of planters are best for which plants. For example, strawberries do very well in hanging planters.

Make sure all the planters have adequate drainage, and if the balcony is especially windy, make sure all the planters are secured in place with weights, ropes, etc.

4. Prepare The Soil

Use a high-quality potting mix designed for container gardening. You can amend this soil from year to year by adding compost and/or fertilizer. Don't use soil from the ground as it could be too dense and could have pathogens harmful to your plants.

5. Plant and Maintain

Plant your seeds according to the guidelines on the packets. Care for them as you would any plant, but make sure to prune your porch or balcony plants on a regular basis so the space doesn't start to feel crowded.

Starting Seeds

Now I'm going to talk about planting your garden. There are two ways to plant seeds: You can sow them outdoors, directly into the ground. Or, you can plant them indoors in seed-starting containers. Then when you're ready, transfer them outdoors. Here's how:

Choose Seed Starting Containers – There are all sorts of things you can use as seed starting containers, from citrus peels to coffee filters. However, most people simply purchase peat pots.
Add the Soil – Put some potting soil in your containers, then moisten them with just a little bit of water.
Plant the Seeds – Plant the seeds according to the instructions on the packet. Plant a few extra in case some of them don't germinate.
Label the Seeds – Add plant labels such as popsicle sticks to the containers and write the type of seed and date it was planted on each one.
Water the Seeds – Regularly water the seeds with a spray bottle and keep the soil moist but not waterlogged.
Provide Light – Make sure the seeds get 12-16 hours of light per day, but not direct sunlight. Instead, give them indirect sunlight or use grow lights.
Thin The Seedlings – Once the seedlings have grown their first set of true leaves, thin them down to the recommended spacing (which might mean removing all but one of the seedlings if the container is small). Use scissors to snip them at soil level so you don't damage the roots of the other seedlings.
Harden Them Off – Take the seedlings outside for an hour or two, and gradually increase the outside time over the course of a week. This will help them adjust to temperature changes and direct sunlight.
Transplant The Seedlings – If the seed starting container is biodegradable, you can simply dig a hole and place the entire thing in the ground. Otherwise, be very careful when transferring the root ball from the container to the ground.

Maintaining Your Garden

Watering

Water your gardening consistently, aiming for about 1 inch of water per week. It's best to water deeply a couple times per week rather than a little bit every day. Watering deeply will encourage deep root growth, which will make the plant stronger and healthier.

Try to water your plants early in the morning, that way the plants will have the water they need to get through the day, and they'll be dry before nightfall, reducing the chance of disease.

Don't forget to take rainfall into account. If it has rained recently, you probably don't need to water, but you can check by using the finger test. Just stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If your finger comes out dirty, you don't need to water. If your finger comes out relatively clean, it's time to water.

Weeding

Weeds will compete with your plants for nutrients and water, so it's important to remove them regularly. Pull them up by hand, or use a hoe to cut them at the roots.

To help prevent weeds, put down a thick layer of mulch around your plants. This will stop weed seeds from sprouting, and it will also help the soil retain moisture so you don't have to water as often.

Fertilizing

You don't have to fertilize your plants, but it can give them a boost that can increase yields. Use some compost tea, organic fertilizer, or well-aged manure. Just don't overdo it. Too much fertilizer can harm your plants.

Dealing With Pests and Disease

Pests and disease can ruin your garden. Trust me, I know. One year, aphids absolutely decimated my potato plants. And another year, root rot killed most of my pole beans. The best way to deal with pests and diseases is to prevent them from becoming a problem in the first place.

Pest Prevention

First of all, be sure to plant some flowers in and around your garden. There are many flowers that repel pests naturally. My favorite is marigolds. I have several around my garden.

You can also plant things that attract beneficial insects. Ladybugs, for example, can help solve your aphid problem, and there are plenty of plants that attract them. In general, having a wide variety of herbs, flowers, and vegetables will make for a healthier garden.

You can use barriers like row covers and fine mesh netting to keep pests off of your plants, but you don't want to leave these on your plants all the time as they will inhibit growth. If you're using planters, you can put copper tape around the outside of the planter. This will deter certain pests, especially slugs.

Be sure to inspect your garden for signs of infestation every day. The earlier you detect the pest problem, the better chance you have of getting it under control. Also, be sure to rotate your crops every season. This will reduce the buildup of pests and disease in the soil and keep your plants healthier.

Pest Removal

If you have a pest problem, work on removing them immediately. You can try picking them off the plants by hand, but this will likely be a losing battle.

Instead, spray your plants with neem oil. Be sure to get every part of the plant, including the undersides of leaves where pests like to hang out. Neem oil is great because it will disrupt the life cycles of pests without harming beneficial insects. Plus, it doesn't have any harmful chemicals.

Another option is diatomaceous earth. This stuff is also natural and doesn't contain any chemicals, so you don't have to worry about it harming your soil or plants. It kills pests by scratching up their exoskeletons, causing them to dry out and die.

The only downside is that it can also kill beneficial insects. For that reason, you should only use it on problem areas, where you see the most pests. And be sure not to get it on any flowers as it will hurt the bees.

There are several other all-natural ways to remove pests including:

Hot pepper garlic spray – The strong scent keeps pests away.
Insecticidal soap – Made from potassium fatty acids, this disrupts cell membranes of pests, causing them to dry out and die.
Oil spray – Certain oils, such as mineral oil, can suffocate pests when sprayed directly on them.
Pyrethrin – Made from chrysanthemum flowers, this affects the nervous systems of pests, quickly paralyzing and killing them.

Disease Prevention

Keeping your garden as clean as possible will help prevent plant diseases from forming in the first place. Immediately remove any debris or dead plants, which could contain disease spores.

Water your plants in the morning so they'll be dry by evening as diseases thrive in moist conditions. And try to water around the roots and not from above. Also, be sure there's good air circulation by spacing your plants properly and pruning away overcrowded areas.

Disease Treatment

Once a plant is infected, you need to act quickly to stop the disease from spreading. Remove and destroy any affected plant parts or the entire plant if necessary. Don't compost any diseased material as it can infect your compost pile.

If you want to try to save the plant, there are several treatments you can try including:

Apple cider vinegar – This is a natural anti-fungal. Just mix two tablespoons into a gallon of water and spray it directly on your plants.
Baking soda – This creates an alkaline environment that hurts fungi. Just mix a tablespoon of it and a few drops of liquid soap into a gallon of water, and spray it on your plants.
Fungicides – These are usually effective, but they often contain harmful chemicals. Even copper fungicide, which is mostly harmless to plants, can be a problem over time if too much copper builds up in the soil.
Hydrogen peroxide – This is an anti-fungal that won't harm your plants or the soil. Add 3 tablespoons to a gallon of water and spray your plants.

Harvesting Your Crops

Every crop has a different harvest window, so you'll need to familiarize yourself with each plant ahead of time so you'll know when and how long to expect a harvest. For example, Kentucky Wonder Beans produce a harvest about 60-70 days after planting, and the harvest window lasts about 4-6 weeks.

As soon as you plant something, write down when you planted it in your garden journal, and calculate the expected harvest date and window.

Make sure you also know how to harvest your crops. For example, with leafy greens like kale or spinach, you don't want to harvest all the leaves at once. Instead, harvest the outer leaves. This will encourage the plant to produce more leaves. If you try harvesting all the leaves at once, you'll shock the plant and slow down or stop new growth.

Be sure to check your plants every day for new crops. Harvesting will encourage the plants to produce more and will prolong the harvest. If you leave crops on the plants for too long, their taste and texture will gradually get worse until they're inedible.

You can harvest most foods by hand. However, there are some vegetables where it's better to harvest with scissors or pruning shears. A few examples include tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant. If you pull too hard, you could damage the plant. Scissors ensure a clean cut, promoting healthy regrowth.

General Gardening Tips

What you grow and how you grow it is up to you, but I hope I've given you plenty to think about. Before we move on, I want to mention a few other gardening tips you should know.

Don't forget to mulch – Doing this will keep your soil moist, your plants healthy, and you won't have to water as often.
Remember to prune your plants – By doing this, you can remove dead or diseased plant parts and encourage new growth, keeping your plants nice and healthy.
Be sure to rotate your crops – Don't grow the same type of food in the same soil year after year. The nutrients the plant needs will be depleted if you don't rotate. Also, rotating crops can help prevent pests and disease.
Water the smart way – Instead of watering a little bit every day, water deeply every few days. This ensures that water gets all the way down to the deepest roots. You could also buy or make self-watering planters.
Use companion plants – Many plants grow better when they have a good companion plant next to them. Companion plants can help prevent pests, stimulate growth, attracted pollinators, and more.
Try succession planting – This is where you grow new crops sequentially over the growing season so every space is constantly being used and never wasted.
Make a schedule and take notes – When you're growing lots of plants, it's easy to forget about pruning, watering, adding fertilizer, turning grow lights on and off, etc. Create a schedule to help you remember, and take notes as you go so you can read over them and learn from your experience.

More Info on Gardening:

Composting

If you have a garden, then you have to compost. Every time you make a salad, every time you scramble some eggs, and every time you chop up vegetables for a soup or casserole, you're going to have kitchen scraps. Why throw them away when you could turn them into fertilizer for your garden?

If you're trying to save money, using compost to amend your garden soil is cheaper than buying fertilizer season after season. Besides, there could come a day when fertilizer is difficult if not impossible to find. Composting prevents that from ever becoming a problem.

Compost will enrich your soil by improving its structure, adding moisture, feeding microorganisms, and boosting fertility, all of which will result in healthier and more robust plant growth. What's not to like?

If you decide to compost, there are only a few things you need:

Compost Thermometer – This isn't absolutely essential, but it's nice to have so you can be sure your compost is at the ideal temperature for decomposition. If it's too cool, it could indicate that the pile is too dry or doesn't have enough nitrogen.
Countertop Compost Bin – This is small enough to sit on your counter or under the sink, and it contains any odors from food scraps. Once it's full, empty it into a larger composting bin.
Large Compost Bin – You can build your own, or you can purchase one. There are many types to choose from. I like the tumblers because they keep out pests and make it easy to keep the compost aerated.

You'll also need to choose a good location. If you're going to have a traditional pile that's exposed to the elements, try to find a spot that sunny for only a few hours a day. This will help with decomposition without drying out the pile too much.

But before you start composting, there are a few concepts you need to understand. Every compost pile needs a mix of brown materials and green materials. Brown materials have more carbon, while green materials have more nitrogen. Here are some examples:

Brown Materials

Cardboard (plain, shredded)
Corn stalks
Dead leaves
Egg cartons (paper-based)
Hay
Paper (uncoated, shredded)
Pine needles
Sawdust (untreated wood)
Straw
Wood chips

Green Materials

Coffee grounds
Fruit scraps
Fresh grass clippings
Manure (from herbivores)
Plant trimmings
Tea leaves
Vegetable scraps
Weeds (not gone to seed)
Yard trimmings (non-woody, like green leaves or small green branches)

There are a few things you can compost that aren't considered brown or green, such as eggshells, wood ash, hair and fur, and wood charcoal. But most things you can compost fall into either the brown or green category.

There's a reason you need to know the difference between these two categories: the ratio. If you add an equal mix of brown and green materials, your compost pile will struggle to decompose. To create the right environment for microorganisms to break down the materials, you want the right ratio.

Ideal compost ratio: 3 parts brown materials to 1 part green materials.

There are also some things you should not compost, including:

Bread and grains
Coal or charcoal ash
Dairy
Diseased plants
Invasive weeds
Meat or fish
Oily foods
Pest waste
Rice (cooked or uncooked)
Treated or painted wood

You also want to keep your compost pile moist, but not too moist. When you stick your hand into the pile, it should feel like a sponge that has just been wrung out. By that I mean, it's not soaking wet, but it's not dry either. In other words:

Ideal compost moisture level: moist but not soggy.

If your compost pile starts to seem a little too dry, you can spray it with water, but don't overdo it. If your compost gets too wet, you'll start to notice foul odors, mold or fungus, slower decomposition, and possibly pests. If your pile seems too wet, add more brown materials and temporarily cover it to protect it from rainfall.

And finally, you have to remember to turn your compost on a regular basis. You can do this with a garden fork or a tumbler. Just stick the fork in, pick up and flip some of the compost, and repeat until you've turned most of the pile. There are a few reasons to do this.

First of all, it helps ensure that the brown and green materials are evenly distributed throughout the pile. Secondly, it provides oxygen to the microorganisms that break down the materials. And finally, it promotes even heating, helping the compost pile decompose faster.

How often you turn your compost pile depends:

For compost piles, turn it every 1-2 weeks. For compost tumblers, turn it a few times twice a week.

That covers the basics, but there's more to learn. You can make compost tea and use it to fertilize your plants on a regular basis. You can also try vermicomposting, where you use worms to break down compost.

The great thing about that methods is it can be done indoors as it doesn't produce any odors (as long as you don't overfeed the worms). But I think that's enough for this month.

More Info on Composting:

I know there was a lot of information to absorb this month. You don't have to go out and buy a bunch of seeds and plant a huge garden right away. Instead, spend this month digging into the links, doing some research, and learning about gardening and composting. Then, start with one or two plants and go from there.

Skills and Supplies Checklist for Month 10

Gather any gardening tools you will need.
Gather any gardening supplies you will need.
Practice starting seeds.
Practice your chosen gardening method.
Learn how to maintain a garden.
Learn how to prevent pests and disease.
Learn how to harvest your crops.
Learn about composting.
Start a compost pile.
Set aside $40 cash.

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