Since we’re in the middle of winter now, I figure I should be making more posts about staying warm in cold weather. I spent a few hours watching some great videos about this, but my favorite is this one by Carolyn’s RV Life.
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Most people don’t use their RV’s in the winter, but Carolyn lives and works in her RV all year long, so she figured out how to keep it nice and warm even when it’s freezing outside.
In this video, she offers all sorts of helpful tips for blocking out the cold air and staying warm.
This video isn’t just for people with RV’s. In fact, most of these tips apply to houses and apartments as well. You can watch the full video below.
Replace and maintain those window and door seals FIRST, before bothering with blankets and pillows. Replace worn-out windows and doors that won’t seal if that’s the issue. Caulk what needs caulking.
I’m wondering if mylar emergency blankets would work better on openings than regular blankets.
I build a fire in my B B Q. Outside.. I line the B B Q. With 3 to 4 inch thick by 6 1/2 to 7 inch long by 5 inches wide river rocks that have been in the sun for at least a year. If there is any moisture in the rocks when you heat them they will explode. … Place in cast iron fry pans and put them all around the areas that I want heated all windows are covered with thick plastic. I keep nice and warm all night. If the temps get really low I will wrap 2stones up in BATH TOWLES ..one for my feet, and one for my chest Area. No co2 or depleted oxygen. Very safe.
Something else to consider is the pipes freezing anywhere in any RV in freezing temp’s. Check out blueseasolar.com. I live on a boat by choice and as my bugout solution. Obviously I have to watch out for freezing temps up and down the east coast from Maine to Miami. These things work. As the temp drops close to 35 degrees the valve opens to release excess water so any expanding water does not crack the pipes. When the temp goes above 35 it closes again. It’s bronze with an internal fluid that must liquify at 35 degrees, to allow fluid flow, and harden to close the valve opening to stop the flow of fluids.
I put 3 on my boat, it’s a 53 footer with 3 separate water systems. Install them at the lowest point possible in the pipe configuration to work with gravity. Add a dual water outlet. Slip or screw on connection. No soldering or cutting pipes, etc… unless you need another option to get close to the lowest pipe location.
About a $125.00 solution with addition parts but cracked pipes and repair of same is a lot more expensive and takes a lot more work to replace.
I did a lot of research on a solution and this is the best one I have come up with. At least with an RV you can open the door and run away…lol
Good luck,
Mike
I checked out that site, but the domain is for sale. Do you know of anyone else who sells that stuff?
I don’t know if you will get this Have you heard of a flower pot heater you use 2 flower pots and tea cup candles I use the bigger ones in a big chicken ,ore tuna can put three of them in and it will heat for about 6+ hours check them out on Youtube
Tried the terracotta post heater and it doesn’t work
Omg! I will never get that 20 minutes back! Thought I had found some useful tips. What a waste of time. Just proves once again that anyone can post a video.
On the seams where you folded the rug over and commented on Capone’s fur, you could use clear gap filler to fill those gaps and help maybe more than the rug is.
When you turn off the water pump and open the faucet you are not emptying the pipes at all. It simply drops the water in the faucet itself and release the pressure. It reduces the risk since there is less pressure inside. This could be enough for you RV and not be good enough for another one, it all depends on the isolation around the pipes and their exposure.
The S under the sink is not related to the water pump at all. If one of the S freeze, leave the door under the sink open to let hot air during the night go around it.
For you windows, you have to understand that when there is nothing in front of it, there is a lot of air travelling into it and that air get colder. If you put a sheet of clear plastic at 1″ in front of your windows, the air between the plastic and the window is the only air that will get colder and this air is not much dense so it will not reduce the temperature a lot for the air inside the RV that touch the plastic sheet. So putting a big blanket is not so much important. What you want to do is reduce the quantity of air that travel on the cold window glass.
The problem is not lack of oxygen in a closed environment. It is that the carbon monoxide molecule has a high affinity to the hemoglobin molecule. That is to say carbon monoxide sticks to the hemoglobin molecule and doesn’t come off easily, and blocks room for the oxygen molecule to attach to the hemoglobin molecule. And that is how you suffocate with carbon monoxide poisoning. The Carbon monoxide molecule just does not come off the hemoglobin molecule like oxygen (going in) and carbon dioxide (going out) does. I should have said, you suffocate with carbon monoxide at a cellular level.
The Mr buddy heater had a low oxegen detector (I think that is what it is) built in so that with a monitor it’s really safe. Radiant heat and it turns off instantly when it’s even tilted too far. They’re great in tents also. Only useful tip.
Always use a monitor. You never know what is in the air!
just curious as to why you just didn’t purchase a heavy plastic and cover the windows. After getting curtains and blankets it would have been more budget friendly, plus let the sun light in for added warm without the breeze. I live in a house with single pain windows, every winter I taped plastic to them leaving about a a 1″ -2″ gap between window and plastic. Amazed at the difference and no loss of light. Tacking emergency blankets (thin silver) also helps to reflect heat back into the unit.
I use a hot water bottle from cvs, fill with boiling water and put inside sleeping bag
I enjoyed your video you did a good job.
Thank you for sharing my video with your viewers! I have been using the Mr. Heater Buddy for months now and have never had a problem!
All the best,
Carolyn Rose,
CarolynsRVLife.com
You’re welcome, thanks for making a great video!
1 tip sleep with feet toward window! In the winter I put up clear plastic, kinda thick, let’s light in, keeps air out. Attach with push pins you won’t have to take down till spring. I do this in the cold extra room over where the window ac is, of my house as well!
NEVER put a large propane tank INSIDE your RV. NEVER run a gas fired heater without proper exhaust venting inside your RV. This is the dumbest advice I’ve ever seen, will kill anyone who follows it. She might as well tell people to get in a car, park in a garage, leave the car running, close the garage door, and die of CO poisoning. INSANE.
The Mr Buddy heater has an oxygen depletion sensor in it, when the O2 level gets too low in the environment it shuts off.
And you are betting your life on an optimistic claim by the manufacturer??
I lived in an RV for 2 years, during the winter I used a Mr Buddy for heat, It has a auto shut off on it if the oxygen gets low. It kept me toasty during 19 degree weather and never once shut off or made me ill. I keep 2 big buddys handy in case we have severe weather and lose power. they are extremely safe.
I have one also. I trust it not much. For one thing propane makes the connections freeze and can cause a leak; I’ve heard of it starting fires. Also I don’t see how it doesn’t put out co2 or Carbon monoxide whatever, I get head aches.
I’m with Shannon. I wouldn’t put a propane tank in my RV or use a propane heater without adequate ventilation, regardless of what sensors the unit is equipped with. Sensors can malfunction. No thanks.